Ethnic groups inhabiting Sikkim, had over the years, developed rich knowledge of local natural resources and their uses which were utilized to meet their various needs.

Natural dyeing was once practiced in Sikkim as a household activity. Locals used to dye their own yarns and fabrics and make their own textile products. Dyes were obtained from plants, barks of trees, roots, leaves and flowers that grew locally. They grew wild and were sourced from the surrounding forests and mountains. Dye extraction and dyeing processes were passed on from generation to generation, through tacit knowledge systems.  

Additionally in Sikkim, dyestuffs formed a key commodity of export to Tibet. Besides self-consumption, the collection and exchange of natural dyes was also carried out as an economic activity. 

Madder (Majito), Walnut, ‘Chucha’, ‘Halhaley’ and ‘Sungay’ (Natural dyesavailable in Sikkim.) later got replaced by chemical dyes. Because of ease of dyeing, larger variety of colours, and better consistency of colours. 

Now the knowledge of dye extraction, its related processes has almost entirely vanished and all that remains, is only mere identification of dye plants, by a few village elders. 

Natural dyes color samples over the years from in the Directorate of Handicraft and handloom (DHH). There has been no documentation or record of the identification of the dye plant or the preparations of the dyes, dyestuff, or the process of dyeing till now, neither any record of individuals who practiced natural dyeing. 

So i took it upon myself to explore the local natural dyes(Shungey, Manjishtha, Walnut Bark, Onion Peel, Marigold), the process, and the materials. It was a great experiment to understand how these each of these dyes react to temperature, time, pressure. 

I had a very jugaad setup for myself.

1. 5 vessels, 

(a) Soaking the dye overnight in warm water.

(b) Soaking the yarns before dyeing.

(c) A big vessel on the flame for boiling the dye, and then dipping the yarns for dyeing.

(d) A bucket of Alum water to help fix the dye on the yarns.

(e) A bucket of clean room temperature water for washing the yarns before drying them.

2. A stand to keep the vessel (c) for dyeing

3. Firewood or Gas whichever is available.

4. A stick for stirring the dyes while they are boiling.

I dipped all the yarns at one go and took each sample out at various time intervals to achieve a range of colours.

(a) Dye to water proportion.

(b) Dye to heat time porportion. (from the time the dye starts boiling)

(c) Time of dipping and removing the sample. 

I made a tiny shade card to get a better idea, and decided on a palette that i wanted to take ahead for the collection I was developing for my graduation project.

The difficult part starts now to recreate these on a larger scale for production.