A series of columns highlighting emerging talent from Germany - fashion designers, photographers and artists - and published in the September/October issue of Schon! Magazine.
Text for Felder Felder:
Identical twin sisters Annette and Daniela Felder founded their leather-heavy label in 2006 while studying at Central St Martins. Now Felder Felder has strutted down the runway at both London and Berlin Fashion Week, picking up high-profile fans including Courtney Love, Gwyneth Paltrow, Estelle, Florence Welch and RIhanna along the way.
Effortlessly chic, their a/w '10 collection combines a muted colour palette with layers of extravagant ruffles. Classic Felder Felder pieces such as military-esque jackets and architectural dresses set the tone, but the tomboy attitude was tempered with flirty skater skirts and wisps of sheer detailing. Long-line furry coats wrapped up the runway presentation while lingerie references peeked through in the form of bodices, bodies and bralettes, all embellished with either rock'n'roll studs or leather frills. The sisters were inspired by Dracula, but the result was still pretty; edgy yet luxurious. Jaime Winstone, Roisin Murphy and Erin O'Connor werein the front row, poster girls for Felder Felder's devil-may-care demeanour.
The sisters began their fashion career when they first left Germany to travel around Europe, supporting themselves by modelling along the way - their first job was a shoot for Vogue Italia. Annette and Daniela then went on to intern for designer Robert Cary-Williams and milliner Stephen Jones, both of whom inspired them to study design themselves. Their first fashion show was styled by Patti Wilson, legendary stylist, and they've never looked back.
Felder Felder is glamorous but grungy; a label composed of opposites that's become a bit of a cult. The sisters have a knack for understanding and delivering exactly what it is that cool girls want. A commercial hit, they've also garnered critical applause in the shape of a BFA nomination and sponsorship from Topshop's NewGen scheme. The Felders also design a range of hardware-heavy accessories; leather bracelets and belts are punctured by oversized studs and lengths of chains. Felder Felder work from a studio based in Notting Hill but their line is available in the UK, Germany, France, Italy, Russia, Australia, Austria and the USA.
Text for Felder Felder:
Identical twin sisters Annette and Daniela Felder founded their leather-heavy label in 2006 while studying at Central St Martins. Now Felder Felder has strutted down the runway at both London and Berlin Fashion Week, picking up high-profile fans including Courtney Love, Gwyneth Paltrow, Estelle, Florence Welch and RIhanna along the way.
Effortlessly chic, their a/w '10 collection combines a muted colour palette with layers of extravagant ruffles. Classic Felder Felder pieces such as military-esque jackets and architectural dresses set the tone, but the tomboy attitude was tempered with flirty skater skirts and wisps of sheer detailing. Long-line furry coats wrapped up the runway presentation while lingerie references peeked through in the form of bodices, bodies and bralettes, all embellished with either rock'n'roll studs or leather frills. The sisters were inspired by Dracula, but the result was still pretty; edgy yet luxurious. Jaime Winstone, Roisin Murphy and Erin O'Connor werein the front row, poster girls for Felder Felder's devil-may-care demeanour.
The sisters began their fashion career when they first left Germany to travel around Europe, supporting themselves by modelling along the way - their first job was a shoot for Vogue Italia. Annette and Daniela then went on to intern for designer Robert Cary-Williams and milliner Stephen Jones, both of whom inspired them to study design themselves. Their first fashion show was styled by Patti Wilson, legendary stylist, and they've never looked back.
Felder Felder is glamorous but grungy; a label composed of opposites that's become a bit of a cult. The sisters have a knack for understanding and delivering exactly what it is that cool girls want. A commercial hit, they've also garnered critical applause in the shape of a BFA nomination and sponsorship from Topshop's NewGen scheme. The Felders also design a range of hardware-heavy accessories; leather bracelets and belts are punctured by oversized studs and lengths of chains. Felder Felder work from a studio based in Notting Hill but their line is available in the UK, Germany, France, Italy, Russia, Australia, Austria and the USA.
Kostas Murkudis
Despite spending two years studying Chemistry at the University of Berlin before realising his own talent as a designer, Kostas Murkudis has become one of Germany's most esteemed designers. A switch to the celebrated Lette Verein School of Fashion and a seven-year stint as design assistant to Helmut Lang prepared him to launch his own label in 1994, and less than ten years later i-D magazine named him one of the 150 most important designers in the world.
His garments are designed with both humour and innovation; rich textures (satin, silk chiffon, Mongolian lambswool) and a flirtation with sheer and transparent fabrics have become his signature aesthetic. After taking a two-year hiatus from his label to work with New York Industries, Murkudis relaunched the brand in 2003 with mens and womenswear pret-a-porter collections, and expanded to include a range of lingerie in 2005.
The current Kostas Murkudis ready-to-wear collection ranges from oversized vests in padded silk and fur to vintage denim painted with latex. The designs are elegant but youthful, with a generous spash of whimsy, playing with volume and aerodynamic shapes within a structural silhouette. Although the colours -gold, sulfur, sun and acid - are deceptively summery, bold lines and flawless construction ensure that Murkudis' pieces remain graphic and sophisticated. The panelled, collarless coat with an exaggerated hem illustrates his urban, playful aesthetic perfectly.
Meanwhile multi-talented Murkudis also collaborates on other projects; most recently a range of stacked platforms and classic sandals with Flip Flop, and high-fashion knitwear with traditional cashmere house Johnstons have marked an exploration of new materials and textures. A sophisticated handbag collection with luxury accessories brand Coccinelle followed, using the sleekest leather in rich shades of forest green, gold, black and maroon, embellished with riveting and fringed tassels. Murkudis has also designed products for Nokia and Adidas and created pieces for various art exhibitions, including the international Dysfashional.
Despite spending two years studying Chemistry at the University of Berlin before realising his own talent as a designer, Kostas Murkudis has become one of Germany's most esteemed designers. A switch to the celebrated Lette Verein School of Fashion and a seven-year stint as design assistant to Helmut Lang prepared him to launch his own label in 1994, and less than ten years later i-D magazine named him one of the 150 most important designers in the world.
His garments are designed with both humour and innovation; rich textures (satin, silk chiffon, Mongolian lambswool) and a flirtation with sheer and transparent fabrics have become his signature aesthetic. After taking a two-year hiatus from his label to work with New York Industries, Murkudis relaunched the brand in 2003 with mens and womenswear pret-a-porter collections, and expanded to include a range of lingerie in 2005.
The current Kostas Murkudis ready-to-wear collection ranges from oversized vests in padded silk and fur to vintage denim painted with latex. The designs are elegant but youthful, with a generous spash of whimsy, playing with volume and aerodynamic shapes within a structural silhouette. Although the colours -gold, sulfur, sun and acid - are deceptively summery, bold lines and flawless construction ensure that Murkudis' pieces remain graphic and sophisticated. The panelled, collarless coat with an exaggerated hem illustrates his urban, playful aesthetic perfectly.
Meanwhile multi-talented Murkudis also collaborates on other projects; most recently a range of stacked platforms and classic sandals with Flip Flop, and high-fashion knitwear with traditional cashmere house Johnstons have marked an exploration of new materials and textures. A sophisticated handbag collection with luxury accessories brand Coccinelle followed, using the sleekest leather in rich shades of forest green, gold, black and maroon, embellished with riveting and fringed tassels. Murkudis has also designed products for Nokia and Adidas and created pieces for various art exhibitions, including the international Dysfashional.
Cora Isabel David
Rising star Cora Isabel David has a lot going on. Despite being only 27 years old, she has already been showing her collection at Berlin Fashion Week for three years and recently launched a line of accessories. She won the incredibly prestigious Designer for Tomorrow award from Peek & Cloppenburg just months after finishing her fashion studies in Berlin and Paris, and was also a finalist for the 2009 Baltic Fashion Award.
Her career began with impressive internships at Giambattista Valli, Rochas and Bernhard Willhelm, as well as assisting backstage Jil Sander. Now, David's known for her youthful aesthetic, thoughtful detailing, experiments with volume and a fascination with abstract concepts. Her accessories reflect all of these signatures, combining nautical rope with exposed zippers in exaggerated cuffs and envelope style handbags.
David finds inspiration everywhere; one season a handwritten note led her to create heart-shaped handbags graffitied with abstract lettering. The next, looming implications of the economic crisis inspired heavy woollen and silk cocoon-esque garments in yellows, greens and greys. Structured headpieces and exaggerated shapes contrast with fluid draping in colour palettes that change with the seasons.
In the last year alone she has been involved in both Refashion for Philip Morris and Fashion Whaat! at Berlin Fashion Week, a showcase of young and emerging talent which was displayed in the former changing rooms of a disused swimming pool, a surreal setting entirely appropriate for David's innovative, imaginative approach to design.
Rising star Cora Isabel David has a lot going on. Despite being only 27 years old, she has already been showing her collection at Berlin Fashion Week for three years and recently launched a line of accessories. She won the incredibly prestigious Designer for Tomorrow award from Peek & Cloppenburg just months after finishing her fashion studies in Berlin and Paris, and was also a finalist for the 2009 Baltic Fashion Award.
Her career began with impressive internships at Giambattista Valli, Rochas and Bernhard Willhelm, as well as assisting backstage Jil Sander. Now, David's known for her youthful aesthetic, thoughtful detailing, experiments with volume and a fascination with abstract concepts. Her accessories reflect all of these signatures, combining nautical rope with exposed zippers in exaggerated cuffs and envelope style handbags.
David finds inspiration everywhere; one season a handwritten note led her to create heart-shaped handbags graffitied with abstract lettering. The next, looming implications of the economic crisis inspired heavy woollen and silk cocoon-esque garments in yellows, greens and greys. Structured headpieces and exaggerated shapes contrast with fluid draping in colour palettes that change with the seasons.
In the last year alone she has been involved in both Refashion for Philip Morris and Fashion Whaat! at Berlin Fashion Week, a showcase of young and emerging talent which was displayed in the former changing rooms of a disused swimming pool, a surreal setting entirely appropriate for David's innovative, imaginative approach to design.
Jannis Tsipoulanis
He has captured some of the world's most beautiful faces - Naomi Campbell, Coco Rocha, Eva Herzigova, Alessandra Ambrosio - on film and his work regularly graces the pages of some of the most influential magazines in existence. Internationally applauded photographer Jannis Tsipoulanis, now living and working in Paris, has lived a life so intriguing that even a fictional biography is in production, detailing the many escapades and adventures that come with the territory of being a top-end fashion photographer.
While still a student Tsipoulanis was approached by a photographer from Stern magazine, and began working as his assistant. It was then that he discovered a passion and enormous talent for creating images, but his relationship with fashion has even deeper roots; his mother was a seamstress at the Goethe Theatre and as a child Jannis was often surrounded by costumes.
His shots are sensual and dramatic. Born in Germany but given a Greek name by his Hellenic parents, a European aesthetic is recognisable in his style, where the women have curves and the men evoke a classic kind of confidence that has been rarely seen since the Golden Age of Hollywood. Tsipoulanis captures a moment: the movement of a model's hair, or the expression in a raised eyebrow.
A rock and roll attitude and a glamour-filled swagger have become the signatures of his photography, often aided by a cigarette casually suspended from between his model's lips. As a veteran contributor to Schon! Tsipoulanis has created tense, conceptual editorials which expertly capture a mood of intrigue. Often risque, always bold, Tsipoulanis harnesses the individual energy of his models and with his camera translates their attitude into unforgettable photographs.
He has captured some of the world's most beautiful faces - Naomi Campbell, Coco Rocha, Eva Herzigova, Alessandra Ambrosio - on film and his work regularly graces the pages of some of the most influential magazines in existence. Internationally applauded photographer Jannis Tsipoulanis, now living and working in Paris, has lived a life so intriguing that even a fictional biography is in production, detailing the many escapades and adventures that come with the territory of being a top-end fashion photographer.
While still a student Tsipoulanis was approached by a photographer from Stern magazine, and began working as his assistant. It was then that he discovered a passion and enormous talent for creating images, but his relationship with fashion has even deeper roots; his mother was a seamstress at the Goethe Theatre and as a child Jannis was often surrounded by costumes.
His shots are sensual and dramatic. Born in Germany but given a Greek name by his Hellenic parents, a European aesthetic is recognisable in his style, where the women have curves and the men evoke a classic kind of confidence that has been rarely seen since the Golden Age of Hollywood. Tsipoulanis captures a moment: the movement of a model's hair, or the expression in a raised eyebrow.
A rock and roll attitude and a glamour-filled swagger have become the signatures of his photography, often aided by a cigarette casually suspended from between his model's lips. As a veteran contributor to Schon! Tsipoulanis has created tense, conceptual editorials which expertly capture a mood of intrigue. Often risque, always bold, Tsipoulanis harnesses the individual energy of his models and with his camera translates their attitude into unforgettable photographs.
Max Hattler
Award-winning experimental film-maker Max Hattler is known for his innovative, sometimes psychedelic short films. Collision, produced in 2005, is kaleidoscopic in its rotation of shapes taken from Islamic patterns, American quilts and the two countries' flags, set to the sound of machinery and exploding artillery. The result is thought-provoking without being explicit in its meaning, it probes a tense political situation without saying outright how Hattler sees it (although we can probably guess). Short of the Week said "few works so elegantly capture the tensions between America and the Islamic world" while Sci-Fi Dimensions described it as "like watching a fireworks display on acid." Both are pretty accurate. Collision went on to garner a host of awards; Marin, San Gio and Videologia Festival have all honoured it, as well as London SFF and Darklight FF.
Although his projects are short, he uses his time powerfully. His animation Drift uses close-up shots of the body reflected in glowing blue light to suggest a kind of human landscape. Spin is a choreographed parade of toy soldiers set to music, prefaced with the words "When conflict becomes a spectacle, the lines between destruction and entertainment get blurred..." If he is telling a story with his cinema, it's one which exists outside of conventional narrative boundaries. Abstract patterns, images and sounds suggest ideas without dictating, but are arranged in a meaningful way.
Outside of his intriguing films, Hattler has put together concert material for Basement Jaxx and music videos for his father, musician Hellmut Hattler. He currently teaches in London, but as one of Germany's most noted creatives his works provoke debate at film festivals around the world.
Award-winning experimental film-maker Max Hattler is known for his innovative, sometimes psychedelic short films. Collision, produced in 2005, is kaleidoscopic in its rotation of shapes taken from Islamic patterns, American quilts and the two countries' flags, set to the sound of machinery and exploding artillery. The result is thought-provoking without being explicit in its meaning, it probes a tense political situation without saying outright how Hattler sees it (although we can probably guess). Short of the Week said "few works so elegantly capture the tensions between America and the Islamic world" while Sci-Fi Dimensions described it as "like watching a fireworks display on acid." Both are pretty accurate. Collision went on to garner a host of awards; Marin, San Gio and Videologia Festival have all honoured it, as well as London SFF and Darklight FF.
Although his projects are short, he uses his time powerfully. His animation Drift uses close-up shots of the body reflected in glowing blue light to suggest a kind of human landscape. Spin is a choreographed parade of toy soldiers set to music, prefaced with the words "When conflict becomes a spectacle, the lines between destruction and entertainment get blurred..." If he is telling a story with his cinema, it's one which exists outside of conventional narrative boundaries. Abstract patterns, images and sounds suggest ideas without dictating, but are arranged in a meaningful way.
Outside of his intriguing films, Hattler has put together concert material for Basement Jaxx and music videos for his father, musician Hellmut Hattler. He currently teaches in London, but as one of Germany's most noted creatives his works provoke debate at film festivals around the world.
