Barcelona
Published in Woman's Weekly 25th October 2005
Published in Woman's Weekly 25th October 2005
Barcelona
The Catalonian capital of Barcelona is officially the most popular city-break with the discerning British public and it’s easy to understand why this visually stunning city is so highly regarded.
From it’s contrasting atmospheric medieval to modern architecture, a shopping experience that is second to none, treasure-filled museums, fantastic art galleries and a wonderful contemporary waterfront region, Barcelona has it all.
Synonymous with the city is the legendary 19th-century architect Antonio Gaudi who popularised the Modernista movement with his various creations including The Sagrada Familia and my own personal favourite, The Park Güell. Perched high above the city, this former speculative luxury English-style housing development is simply one of the most delightful gardens you will ever encounter. Fairy-tale pavilions, Gothic archways, palm-shaped pillars and a strikingly tiled dragon guarding a beautiful terrace surrounded by undulating mosaic benches compete for your visual attention. An added bonus is provided by a variety of free entertainment including a chance to stretch your legs with a gentle Catalonian style of tea dance complete with live music which is sure to bring a smile to your face and a spring in your step.
The enduring symbol of Barcelona has to be the fantastical unfinished Cathedral, which became Gaudi’s life’s work from 1883 until his untimely death in 1926 after an argument with a tram. Despite the ever-present plethora of cranes surrounding The Sagrada Familia as the controversial building expansion plans gather pace, the stunning beauty and uniqueness of the original elements of the church shine through. Try and view the exterior early in the morning when the crowds are mercifully absent and the sunlight magically transforms the stonework on the superior eastern façade with a golden glow. Regrettably I cannot recommend the disappointing ongoing pastiche interpretation work on the western façade, which is neither relevant nor of serious artistic merit. Unfortunately this form of vandalism is part financed by the two million yearly visitors who pay an entrance fee for the privilege of viewing the interior and the unprecedented vista through the archers’ windows high up in one of the towers.
Other Gaudi highlights include his most successful combination of imagination and radical architectural innovation at the La Pedrera apartment block and the reptilian styled Casa Batlló which is just a short walk away at the heart of the city’s Quadrat d’Or (Golden Square). This exciting urban Modernista house is set against the masterworks by two of Gaudi’s closest rivals to present a stunning hallucinatory block of townhouses popularly known as Manzana de la Discórdia.
International interest in Gaudi’s work often overshadows the fact that there are many other remarkable Modernista buildings to admire in Barcelona particularly the magnificent concert hall at the Palau de la Música Catalana. Elaborate mosaic tiles decorate the façade whilst the interior is an explosion of coloured tiles, stained glass, enamel, sculpture and carvings. Although you can buy tickets for a guided tour in English, the preferable way to experience the full glory of the hall is to see one of the 300 annual concerts and dance shows. www.palaumusica.org
Barcelona positively screams with countless fabulous art galleries, museums and monuments including my particular favourite public sculpture at the new Rambla del Ravel featuring the Columbian artist Botero’s huge scale interpretation of a cat. Animal lovers will adore this deliciously bulging moggy although the local neighbourhood dogs seem to give it a wide berth!
Art lovers are spoilt for choice with major collections by two of the greatest twentieth century artists in Picasso and Joan Miró. Both were heavily influenced by their time in Barcelona and it is appropriate they have their own museums devoted to their respective careers at the Fundació Joan Miró and the Museu Picasso.
An unexpected bonus can be found at the mid point of the lively La Rambla walkway where the observant pedestrian needs to focus on the colourful pavement beneath their feet to register a wonderful colourful mosaic by Miró.
This is just one of the delights to be experienced from a compulsive stroll along the famous La Rambla, which despite of the increasing tawdry souvenir shops and packed crowds remains one of Barcelona’s essential attractions. This legendary buzzing pedestrian street is perfect for a spot of people watching with a multitude of street performers, flower sellers, fortune tellers and musicians vying for your attention and money. Legend has it that if you drink from the 19th-century fountain at the top end of the boulevard you “will fall in love with Barcelona and always revisit” which, on balance, is not a bad return for a sip of water.
Towards the top end of La Rambla is the unmissable Boqueria, one of the biggest food markets in Europe where freshness reigns supreme and buyers are spoiled for choice. Take your pick from the hundreds of extravagant stalls selling everything from exotic fruit and vegetables to animal parts that you may not have dreamed existed. It is an absolute visual and sensory overload and during my visit came complete with the bizaire sight of a brass band swaying and playing through the overflowing crowds. First-aid treatment for the weary, hungry shopper comes in the form of the market-fresh tapas and local specialities at many of the adjoining bars and restaurants.
Catalan cuisine dominates the restaurant scene with unexpected food combinations such as lobster with chicken or prawns with rabbit. Best deals are to found at lunchtime where most restaurants are required by law to serve an economical fixed-price menu consisting of three courses, wine and water.
For the best seafood restaurants head to the waterfront districts of Barceloneta (‘Little Barcelona’) and Vila Olímpica, which offer a menú del dia of whatever’s fresh off the local fishing boats. An appropriate commissioned sculpture by Frank Gehry of a large shimmering copper fish completes the nautical theme and adds a bizaire twist to the rejuvenated city skyline. Much of this revitalization came through the city’s ambitious plans for the hosting of the 1992 Olympic Games where the once neglected coastal zone was transformed into a wonderful 8 km lively promenade full of restaurants, shops and a host of family entertainments.
Unsurprisingly, Barcelona rates as Spain’s number one shopping destination with numerous branches of Europe’s best-known fashion stores as well as endless specialist independent shops, which are so sadly missing from the British high street of today.
Barcelona is an extremely compact city and most areas are best explored on foot, particularly the old town, waterfront and bohemian Gràcia where a gentle stroll is the finest way to soak up the cultural and architectural riches. Gràcia stands out as the city’s most cosmopolitan neighbourhoods with a host of innovative designer boutiques, which rival Paris with their quality and style. Should you require assistance the first-rate bus and metro (underground) system, which is supplemented by a number of oddities like funiculars and the last remaining tram line, the Tramvia Blau is rapid, easy to use and inexpensive. The antidote to the bustle of city life can be found at Barcelona’s largest landscaped park, Parc de la Ciutadella, which offers the visitor a variety of attractions including romantic gardens, a beautiful lake, museums and a zoo.
Yellow and black coloured taxis can be hailed in the street and can work out as cheap as public transportation for two or more passengers on a short journey.
For all you need to know about fares, routes and timetables of the bus and metro systems log onto: www.tmb.net
Other options to consider include the open-topped Bus Turístic offering the best bargain in city sightseeing where you can hop on and off as many times as you like plus you receive discount vouchers for a range of attractions.
Why not observe the city from the sea on a Les Golondrines sightseeing boat or on a catamaran with an underwater view followed by a stylish ride along La Rambla upon a horse-drawn carriage.
Just beyond the city are several sites worthy of exploration including the holy Catalan shrine Montserrat, the cava wine country in the region of Penedès and the chic party resort of Sitges.
Fact Box
Spanish Tourist Board
24 hour brochure line Tel: 08459 400180
Websites:
www.tourspain.co.uk
www.spain.info
www.catalunyatourism.com
http://www.bcn.es/english/ihome.htm
http://www.timeout.com/barcelona/
http://www.barcelonaturisme.com
The Catalonian capital of Barcelona is officially the most popular city-break with the discerning British public and it’s easy to understand why this visually stunning city is so highly regarded.
From it’s contrasting atmospheric medieval to modern architecture, a shopping experience that is second to none, treasure-filled museums, fantastic art galleries and a wonderful contemporary waterfront region, Barcelona has it all.
Synonymous with the city is the legendary 19th-century architect Antonio Gaudi who popularised the Modernista movement with his various creations including The Sagrada Familia and my own personal favourite, The Park Güell. Perched high above the city, this former speculative luxury English-style housing development is simply one of the most delightful gardens you will ever encounter. Fairy-tale pavilions, Gothic archways, palm-shaped pillars and a strikingly tiled dragon guarding a beautiful terrace surrounded by undulating mosaic benches compete for your visual attention. An added bonus is provided by a variety of free entertainment including a chance to stretch your legs with a gentle Catalonian style of tea dance complete with live music which is sure to bring a smile to your face and a spring in your step.
The enduring symbol of Barcelona has to be the fantastical unfinished Cathedral, which became Gaudi’s life’s work from 1883 until his untimely death in 1926 after an argument with a tram. Despite the ever-present plethora of cranes surrounding The Sagrada Familia as the controversial building expansion plans gather pace, the stunning beauty and uniqueness of the original elements of the church shine through. Try and view the exterior early in the morning when the crowds are mercifully absent and the sunlight magically transforms the stonework on the superior eastern façade with a golden glow. Regrettably I cannot recommend the disappointing ongoing pastiche interpretation work on the western façade, which is neither relevant nor of serious artistic merit. Unfortunately this form of vandalism is part financed by the two million yearly visitors who pay an entrance fee for the privilege of viewing the interior and the unprecedented vista through the archers’ windows high up in one of the towers.
Other Gaudi highlights include his most successful combination of imagination and radical architectural innovation at the La Pedrera apartment block and the reptilian styled Casa Batlló which is just a short walk away at the heart of the city’s Quadrat d’Or (Golden Square). This exciting urban Modernista house is set against the masterworks by two of Gaudi’s closest rivals to present a stunning hallucinatory block of townhouses popularly known as Manzana de la Discórdia.
International interest in Gaudi’s work often overshadows the fact that there are many other remarkable Modernista buildings to admire in Barcelona particularly the magnificent concert hall at the Palau de la Música Catalana. Elaborate mosaic tiles decorate the façade whilst the interior is an explosion of coloured tiles, stained glass, enamel, sculpture and carvings. Although you can buy tickets for a guided tour in English, the preferable way to experience the full glory of the hall is to see one of the 300 annual concerts and dance shows. www.palaumusica.org
Barcelona positively screams with countless fabulous art galleries, museums and monuments including my particular favourite public sculpture at the new Rambla del Ravel featuring the Columbian artist Botero’s huge scale interpretation of a cat. Animal lovers will adore this deliciously bulging moggy although the local neighbourhood dogs seem to give it a wide berth!
Art lovers are spoilt for choice with major collections by two of the greatest twentieth century artists in Picasso and Joan Miró. Both were heavily influenced by their time in Barcelona and it is appropriate they have their own museums devoted to their respective careers at the Fundació Joan Miró and the Museu Picasso.
An unexpected bonus can be found at the mid point of the lively La Rambla walkway where the observant pedestrian needs to focus on the colourful pavement beneath their feet to register a wonderful colourful mosaic by Miró.
This is just one of the delights to be experienced from a compulsive stroll along the famous La Rambla, which despite of the increasing tawdry souvenir shops and packed crowds remains one of Barcelona’s essential attractions. This legendary buzzing pedestrian street is perfect for a spot of people watching with a multitude of street performers, flower sellers, fortune tellers and musicians vying for your attention and money. Legend has it that if you drink from the 19th-century fountain at the top end of the boulevard you “will fall in love with Barcelona and always revisit” which, on balance, is not a bad return for a sip of water.
Towards the top end of La Rambla is the unmissable Boqueria, one of the biggest food markets in Europe where freshness reigns supreme and buyers are spoiled for choice. Take your pick from the hundreds of extravagant stalls selling everything from exotic fruit and vegetables to animal parts that you may not have dreamed existed. It is an absolute visual and sensory overload and during my visit came complete with the bizaire sight of a brass band swaying and playing through the overflowing crowds. First-aid treatment for the weary, hungry shopper comes in the form of the market-fresh tapas and local specialities at many of the adjoining bars and restaurants.
Catalan cuisine dominates the restaurant scene with unexpected food combinations such as lobster with chicken or prawns with rabbit. Best deals are to found at lunchtime where most restaurants are required by law to serve an economical fixed-price menu consisting of three courses, wine and water.
For the best seafood restaurants head to the waterfront districts of Barceloneta (‘Little Barcelona’) and Vila Olímpica, which offer a menú del dia of whatever’s fresh off the local fishing boats. An appropriate commissioned sculpture by Frank Gehry of a large shimmering copper fish completes the nautical theme and adds a bizaire twist to the rejuvenated city skyline. Much of this revitalization came through the city’s ambitious plans for the hosting of the 1992 Olympic Games where the once neglected coastal zone was transformed into a wonderful 8 km lively promenade full of restaurants, shops and a host of family entertainments.
Unsurprisingly, Barcelona rates as Spain’s number one shopping destination with numerous branches of Europe’s best-known fashion stores as well as endless specialist independent shops, which are so sadly missing from the British high street of today.
Barcelona is an extremely compact city and most areas are best explored on foot, particularly the old town, waterfront and bohemian Gràcia where a gentle stroll is the finest way to soak up the cultural and architectural riches. Gràcia stands out as the city’s most cosmopolitan neighbourhoods with a host of innovative designer boutiques, which rival Paris with their quality and style. Should you require assistance the first-rate bus and metro (underground) system, which is supplemented by a number of oddities like funiculars and the last remaining tram line, the Tramvia Blau is rapid, easy to use and inexpensive. The antidote to the bustle of city life can be found at Barcelona’s largest landscaped park, Parc de la Ciutadella, which offers the visitor a variety of attractions including romantic gardens, a beautiful lake, museums and a zoo.
Yellow and black coloured taxis can be hailed in the street and can work out as cheap as public transportation for two or more passengers on a short journey.
For all you need to know about fares, routes and timetables of the bus and metro systems log onto: www.tmb.net
Other options to consider include the open-topped Bus Turístic offering the best bargain in city sightseeing where you can hop on and off as many times as you like plus you receive discount vouchers for a range of attractions.
Why not observe the city from the sea on a Les Golondrines sightseeing boat or on a catamaran with an underwater view followed by a stylish ride along La Rambla upon a horse-drawn carriage.
Just beyond the city are several sites worthy of exploration including the holy Catalan shrine Montserrat, the cava wine country in the region of Penedès and the chic party resort of Sitges.
Fact Box
Spanish Tourist Board
24 hour brochure line Tel: 08459 400180
Websites:
www.tourspain.co.uk
www.spain.info
www.catalunyatourism.com
http://www.bcn.es/english/ihome.htm
http://www.timeout.com/barcelona/
http://www.barcelonaturisme.com
