WMU Thesis's profile

Uncovered | Emilee Guzak

Thesis statement
 
Ever since I was ten years old I have received hand-me-down Vogue magazines from 
my very fashionable aunt. By being exposed to so many Vogue covers I noticed they were culturally lacking in a specific area. While working at a Middle Eastern restaurant, I have had constant exposure to Muslim women, and I have always held a curiosity with the variations of ways they wear specific articles of clothing. The freedom that western women experience through fashion is taken for granted. I will focus on Muslim women in Pakistan and uncover the facts of what makes them feel liberated through fashion. I will design Vogue covers with Muslim women as the subject that show their culture’s religious restrictions on fashion, and explains the deeper meaning behind the cloth they wear. These covers will not only show how beautiful Muslim clothing is, but will give a glimpse to the deeper religious meaning these articles of clothing hold true. It is my hope to see the standards of Vogue change as our main stream media continues to deal with the War on Terror. Through these Vogue covers that include both modest and modern takes on Muslim fashion, I hope to shine a more positive light on this beautiful culture of people. 
This cover focuses merely on the beauty of the hijab, and holds an emphasis on the woman's eyes. In Muslim tradition women can sometimes be mistaken as a man's accessory. This cover focuses on how beautiful a Muslim could look on future covers of vogue by only showing her eyes, hijab, and accessories. 
My thesis focuses on Muslim women in Pakistan. In this cover I added the detail of the crescent moon and star derived from the flag of Pakistan. The high contrast of black and white imagery, as well as, the smokey eye makeup I feel immediately draws you into the piece. 
This cover's main focus is an abstract form of acid attacks. 160 women a year in Pakistan become victims of acid attacks. Smile Again is a foundation built upon building women back up after such attacks, and buidling their confidences and lives back up. 
This cover is the more modern, and pushing of the boundaries take of Vogue magazines. Adding a high contrast colored fabric as the hijab, and a less covered version of the abaya. 
This cover focuses on a modernized version of the abaya and hijab, but also a very classic and chic take on it. She still accessorizes and has beautiful eye makeup, as well as, a belt to show more of the form of her bodice. 
A modernized, and pushing the boundaries take on Muslim fashion showing the hijab. 
Project Narrative
 
Vogue magazine was established in 1892 and produced in New York, it was and is still today a dignified and authentic journal of society. Early issues of Vogue reported current events and fashions. Even after the first World War ended Vogue was ideally placed to reflect a new world of international society. The war altered everything from clothes to manners, as well as, art, ideas, and social attitudes. Today, we are still fighting the ongoing War on Terror in the Middle East, and have been for over a decade. SO WHY has this current war not also altered everything from clothes to social attitudes? This too should reflect a new world of international society today?
   I have been an avid viewer of Vogue since I was 10 years old. Vogue covers specifically show a clear passage of time, whether it be due to clothing trends or current events. Social acceptability has completely changed over the years. If society can ditch corsets and girdles, and go from floor length dresses to crop tops and booty shorts, then why can’t it go one step further in showing a Muslim woman in her religious attire, this clothing is beautiful and holds a much deeper meaning. 
   My focus is Muslim women in Pakistan. My goal is to uncover the facts of what makes Muslim women feel liberated through fashion. I will design Vogue covers with Muslim women as the subject, and show their culture’s religious restrictions on fashion, I want to explain the deeper meaning behind the cloth they wear. These covers will not only show how beautiful Muslim clothing is, but will give a glimpse into a deeper religious meaning. It is my hope to see the standards of Vogue change as our mainstream media continues to deal with the War on Terror. The Vogue covers I will design will include both modest and modern takes on Muslim fashion, I hope to shine a more positive light on this beautiful culture of people. A culture of people we must learn to understand and accept into the fashion world. 
  My audience for this project is anyone interested in fashion, design, and creating a more diverse publication of Vogue magazine. My process includes: heavy research on the evolution of design from Vogue covers from the 1890's until now, research on Muslim tradtions, and opinions of Muslim fashion from Muslim women from all different ends of the spectrum. Diving deeper into reading many articles, books, and youtube documentaries on Muslim traditions helped immensely in completing my research. Vogue: The Covers was the main source of inspiration driving this project. Muslim women will grace the cover of Vogue one day, why not now?
Images of Research & Process
This project succeeded by drawing the viewer in through high contrast visual imagery, a strong compelling model subject, and a sense of wonder to draw one in.  I achieved my goals of creating beautiful imagery by having a keen attention to detail. I went thrift shopping for hours at a time, putting together fabrics and draping materials on a dress form in my apartment. Learning how to correctly form a hijab headscarf out of fabrics, and even mapping out and highlighting aspects of past Vogue covers to inspire specific poses for my models was a large part of my process. I have studied in depth the guidelines and regulations of Muslim dress. I feel I addressed my audience
well and captured their attention with the different variations of narrative within each of the six
covers I created. 
Credit: Langston Hues | Much of my research was done on "Hijabistas" the hipsters of the Muslim culture. 
An image that is a "Call to Action" on acid attack by minor acts of fashion disobedience. 
Beautiful black and white contrast from Vogues history. 
A photograph I took that was part of my process in deciding on the subject, and narrative of the covers. 
A wartime cover from Vogue's past that was very inspriing for my research. 
This image was one of the main reasons my idea came into play, to mesh Muslim culture with the fashion publication of Vogue. This image is breathtaking with the eye make-up and placement of the hijab. Her accessories are also a very fashion forward push. | Desert Winds Photography |
Image by: Fadiel Baksoella | After conducting heavy research on acid attacks, the treatment of women, and the meaning behind the hijab, I was very intrigued by this beautiful image. The Hijab holds a deeper meaning than just a piece of cloth, hijabs are a way of believing, and a way of life. 
Image: AABCollection.com | This image completely abides by all Muslim guidlines, and is completely beautiful and fashion forward. Throughout my research I was completely opened up to a new world of fashionistas/Hijabistas. This culture MUST be highlighted on publications like Vogue. 
Image by: Justtrendygirl.com | Another image of the modernized dress within the Muslim culture. An image inspriing each article of clothing chosen for the photoshoots I took to create my final Vogue covers. 
A focus on the hijab, a headscarf that is a Muslim tradtion that holds a deeper meaning of a way of believing and presenting ones self. 
An image of a Pakistani woman before Islamic law set in. 
Imagery of the most conservative form of Muslim clothing, the Burka. 
Discussion/Conclusion
 
In conclusion I have learned that Islamic fashion is not always a negative and oppressed term
as the mainstream media portrays it to be, in fact many women in Pakistan feel the most feminine and beautiful when they are covered and wearing the hijab. This project for me was successful in lightheartedly drawing attention to a somewhat touchy subject. We must shed a positive light on this beautiful culture of people and their forms of tradtion and dress. I feel my strengths as a photographer and past experience working at a photography studio were highlighted throughout the end product of this piece. All in all I wanted the images to speak for themselves, if i were to further this project I would complete the entire layout of the magazine to highlight typesetting skills and organizing imagery. 
 
 
References:
 
 
Web Sources:
 
http://womensenews.org/2013/08/muslim-hijabistas-generate-growing-fashion-buzz/
 
http://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/a9130/hipsters-in-hijab-muslim-women-in-america/
 
http://www.aabcollection.com/shop/product/kabanoki-abaya/1084
 
http://www.justtrendygirls.com/fall-stylish-hijab-street-looks/
 
 
Youtube Videos:
 
Viceland: States of Undress By: Hailey Gates
 
Acid Attack Survivors: Beauty Salon Owner Helps Rehabilitate Victims
 
Inspirational Monica Singh: Acid Attack Victim To New York Fashionista
 
Pakistani Eid Outfit Fashion Trends 2015 For Women - G3Fashions
 
Hijab Tutorial l EID
 
Traditional Indian/Pakistani Bridal Smokey Eye Makeup Tutorial
 
Now Burka terror in Pakistan
 
Afghanistan: Cut From Different Cloth - Burqas and Beliefs
 
 
Books:
 
Vogue: The Covers by: Dodie Kanzanjian
 
Fifty Dresses that Changed the World By Design Museum
 
Will the Real Pakistani Woman Please stand up? By Moon Charania

The Islamic Veil: A Beginner's Guide By Elizabeth M. Bucar 
Hijabers Fashion Guide Bety Lestari Widya Perwitasari 
The New Muslim Guide: Simple rules and important Islamic guidelines for new Muslims in all aspects of life by Fahd Salem Bahammam
 
The Upstairs Wife: An Intimate History of Pakistan By Rafia Zakaria
 
The Changing Role of Women in Pakistan By Tazeen Faridi
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Uncovered | Emilee Guzak
Published:

Uncovered | Emilee Guzak

A future look at the Vogue magazine publication diversifying itself further by showing Muslim fashion and cultural tradition.

Published:

Creative Fields