Some useful background info:
Supported M-code:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Firmware_featur
Supported G-code:
http://replicat.org/gcod
Full G-code:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code
Sanguinolu specs:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu
Melzi Ardentissimo controller specs (The one that I use):
http://reprap.org/wiki/Melzi
Link for how to save as .stl for many CAD programs:
Here I have a small remark regarding Creo\Elements - I am always using binary Res=0.05mm Deg=10
/www.3deefab.com/en/faq/stl#cocreate
Supported M-code:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Firmware_featur
Supported G-code:
http://replicat.org/gcod
Full G-code:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code
Sanguinolu specs:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu
Melzi Ardentissimo controller specs (The one that I use):
http://reprap.org/wiki/Melzi
Link for how to save as .stl for many CAD programs:
Here I have a small remark regarding Creo\Elements - I am always using binary Res=0.05mm Deg=10
/www.3deefab.com/en/faq/stl#cocreate
Unboxing the kit:
The kit arrived exactly as promissed - First thing is to unpack it and see what inside the box...
BTW: I have an error in the video there are 5 stepper motor not 6 as I say.
BTW: I have an error in the video there are 5 stepper motor not 6 as I say.
Assembly:
After 3 Days I had an assembled and mechanicaly working Huxley machine.
After 3 Days I had an assembled and mechanicaly working Huxley machine.
I build it accurding to the RepRapPro Huxley build instractions.
There are also nice buiding videos on youtube just search for "Huxley build"
There are also nice buiding videos on youtube just search for "Huxley build"
My tips for the assembly are:
- Make sure the gears of the extruder rotates freely - if needed enlarge the mounting holes of the extruder stepper.
- I decided to change the original plane and locate the Z-stepper and the Z-endstop at the left side (same side as the Hot-plate connector) This way the wiring is shorter and there is only one side with wires.
- Twist together the four wires of each stepper-motors and the pairs of the switches and heaters before routing them. This way they will omit less EMI and will be more emmune the EMI.
- Use the spare wires of the stepper motor for the switchs wiring.
- Make sure the gears of the extruder rotates freely - if needed enlarge the mounting holes of the extruder stepper.
- I decided to change the original plane and locate the Z-stepper and the Z-endstop at the left side (same side as the Hot-plate connector) This way the wiring is shorter and there is only one side with wires.
- Twist together the four wires of each stepper-motors and the pairs of the switches and heaters before routing them. This way they will omit less EMI and will be more emmune the EMI.
- Use the spare wires of the stepper motor for the switchs wiring.
Configuration & First Print:
The machine didn't print right away. I needed to learn and understand some of the configuration parameters and the general concept of converting the 3D-model to .STL files amd to .PLA G-code files
The machine didn't print right away. I needed to learn and understand some of the configuration parameters and the general concept of converting the 3D-model to .STL files amd to .PLA G-code files
My setup & conclusions:
- Make sure the extruder is configured to absolute value (not relative as default)!!
- For 0.3mm resolution I use 30[mm/sec] for the movement and 27mm/sec] for the extruder.
- For 0.25/0.20mm resolution I use 30[mm/sec] for the movement and 30mm/sec] for the extruder.
- Change the early stop / start and extruder retraction values to improve the printing results.
- Generate new G-code file (.pla) after every parameter change in the Skeinforge application.
- Use the latest Skeinforge application & use it seperatly from the eMAKER program.
- Load the new .pla file into eMAKER PronterFace application and then upload it to the printer SD.
- It is much faster to copy the .pla file directly to the SD card and rename it to .G
- Not all G-Code & M-code are supported.
- The Temperature reading are not properaly calibrated so the temperature target value shoud acount for that.
-My sensors shows 40Cdeg @room temperature of ~21Cdeg. Hence I command 20Cdeg more.
- The Hot-bed temperature should be 85Cdeg (Calibrated).
- Hot End should be ~0.5mm from the bed-plant.
- Heating resistor should be assembled with thermal grease for proper thermal conduction - otherways it can be destroyed after few hours of work - Like mine did.
- Kapton tape is good but regulare transperent tape is also o.k. The only problem is that is has little life span on the hot-bed so chage it after 2-3 prints.
- Make sure the extruder is configured to absolute value (not relative as default)!!
- For 0.3mm resolution I use 30[mm/sec] for the movement and 27mm/sec] for the extruder.
- For 0.25/0.20mm resolution I use 30[mm/sec] for the movement and 30mm/sec] for the extruder.
- Change the early stop / start and extruder retraction values to improve the printing results.
- Generate new G-code file (.pla) after every parameter change in the Skeinforge application.
- Use the latest Skeinforge application & use it seperatly from the eMAKER program.
- Load the new .pla file into eMAKER PronterFace application and then upload it to the printer SD.
- It is much faster to copy the .pla file directly to the SD card and rename it to .G
- Not all G-Code & M-code are supported.
- The Temperature reading are not properaly calibrated so the temperature target value shoud acount for that.
-My sensors shows 40Cdeg @room temperature of ~21Cdeg. Hence I command 20Cdeg more.
- The Hot-bed temperature should be 85Cdeg (Calibrated).
- Hot End should be ~0.5mm from the bed-plant.
- Heating resistor should be assembled with thermal grease for proper thermal conduction - otherways it can be destroyed after few hours of work - Like mine did.
- Kapton tape is good but regulare transperent tape is also o.k. The only problem is that is has little life span on the hot-bed so chage it after 2-3 prints.
First Layer Problems:
1. If the filament is rolling back and sticking to the extruder - Increase the HotEnd temperature ~200 - 215DegC
(Calibrated) I also notieced that using a fine nail-pile or sanding-paper to clean the HotEnd nozzle helps!
1. If the filament is rolling back and sticking to the extruder - Increase the HotEnd temperature ~200 - 215DegC
(Calibrated) I also notieced that using a fine nail-pile or sanding-paper to clean the HotEnd nozzle helps!
2. If the filament does not stick well to the Hot-Plate - Increase the Hot-Plate temperature ~85 - 100DegC. Notieced that the middle of the Hot-Plate is hotter then the sides so for large model the temperature should be rised even more.
3. If the filament trace touching and disconnecting from the plate - Decrease the extruder hight (Closer to the hot plate).
In general the filament should be 'pured gently' by the extruder not 'pressed injected' to the Hot-Plate.
4. For best result try to print @room temperature between 18 to 24DegC and relative humidity less then 54%. If needed turn on the air-condition
5. Very important to clean the Hot-Plate (Glass or Kompthon tape) every ~5 prints with Alcohol. This greatly improves the 1st layer integrity!
Going to 0.2mm / or 0.15mm resolution:
Make sure you have a pepect working setup @0.2mm and perfact hot-plate balance - Then lower the extruder hight from the Hot-Plate ~0.1 and test-print. Keep fine tuning the extruder hight from the Hot-Plate until the 1st layer is good.
Make sure you have a pepect working setup @0.2mm and perfact hot-plate balance - Then lower the extruder hight from the Hot-Plate ~0.1 and test-print. Keep fine tuning the extruder hight from the Hot-Plate until the 1st layer is good.
The prints are not 100% perpect and I still have some issuse to solve regarding that the PLA does not always stick properly to the Kapton-Tape. But I can work with the current quality. Here are some examples:
One of the first prints. Printed at 0.3mm layer resolution
1st version of new HotEnd setup:
After 1 day of work (~4hours) a disaster - The heating resistor burned (probably because I didn't use thermal grease - the instructions say it is not mandatory...).
I saw that it is almost imposible to get the original heating resistor (Axial wirewond enamel coating 3W 6.8Ohm) on mouser / ebay with reasonable price - so I decided to use a simple ceramic resistor.
A pack of 10 can be found on eBay for ~5USD including shipment. I use 8[Ohm] resistor and and everything start working again (But far from perfact).
I saw that it is almost imposible to get the original heating resistor (Axial wirewond enamel coating 3W 6.8Ohm) on mouser / ebay with reasonable price - so I decided to use a simple ceramic resistor.
A pack of 10 can be found on eBay for ~5USD including shipment. I use 8[Ohm] resistor and and everything start working again (But far from perfact).
2nd version of HotEnd setup (Best one):
After a week of work I understood that the setup with the Ceramic resistor is far from good.
-The hot end was not hot enogh - 1st layer did not stick good to the hot-plate.
-The PID parameters had to be changed in firmware (Didn't feel like going in to this advanture)
-The hot end was not hot enogh - 1st layer did not stick good to the hot-plate.
-The PID parameters had to be changed in firmware (Didn't feel like going in to this advanture)
I decided to work with an Enamel resistor instead but I only found a bigger diameter type on ebay.
I made a similar but slitly larger aluminium block with larger hole for the bigger resistor. Assembeled everything inside like the orignal.
Buttom line - WORK 110% (most of the NOT sticking problems vanished)
Buttom line - WORK 110% (most of the NOT sticking problems vanished)
Currently I am printing in 0.25mm, 0.2mm &0.15mm resolutions.
Going PRO:
4 months passed - And it is now less then a year from my first print. I think I almost mastered it.
I am printing now at 0.2mm and sometime at 0.15mm Z-resolution.
Almost every print is 100% perpect.
Here are my latest tips:
1. Clean the Kompton with alcohol every ~5 prints
2. Don't print in high humidity!!! If the first layer does not stick - turn on the A.C in the room!
3. Adding an external fan to cool down the part while printing greatly improves the print quality!
The printer opened for me a complete new field and way of designing.
I learned to use solid CAD software (particulary Creo\Element\Direct by PTC and SpaceClaim).
So far I used my 3D-Printer in 4 of my project.
Here are some links:
Smart_Tunnel - All the special mechanical parts of the 3DoF balance are made in house.
Pitot-Tube - The entire structure
RC-Model - Well that is for fun
Wings - A little expensive but much more accurate and easier then building or cutting foam by hand.
I am printing now at 0.2mm and sometime at 0.15mm Z-resolution.
Almost every print is 100% perpect.
Here are my latest tips:
1. Clean the Kompton with alcohol every ~5 prints
2. Don't print in high humidity!!! If the first layer does not stick - turn on the A.C in the room!
3. Adding an external fan to cool down the part while printing greatly improves the print quality!
The printer opened for me a complete new field and way of designing.
I learned to use solid CAD software (particulary Creo\Element\Direct by PTC and SpaceClaim).
So far I used my 3D-Printer in 4 of my project.
Here are some links:
Smart_Tunnel - All the special mechanical parts of the 3DoF balance are made in house.
Pitot-Tube - The entire structure
RC-Model - Well that is for fun
Wings - A little expensive but much more accurate and easier then building or cutting foam by hand.
80mm Fan Mount:
.stl version can be D/L here:
The Fan mount can be put in any angle - At this 'Open' position the printer can be easily maintained.
