Quiet Luxury
The dresses "do not shout, but whisper", the trend of whispered beauty
At its core, quiet luxury is a resurgent fashion movement that emphasises investment in high-quality, minimalist pieces that have timeless appeal. This is 'anti-bling' — the other end of the scale to popular avant-garde designer brands who experiment with bold logos and ostentatious patterns.
The ultra-rich dress soberly, buy discreet products of supreme quality, beauty and rarity of materials, and only those like them recognize the true value of the object.
As Vanessa Friedman, fashion critic of The New York Times recently said, the Milanese catwalks have seen a shift towards "dresses that don't scream, but whisper".
She compares two queens: dresses without logos, but which speak of their value to those who really know how to look at them, for Gwyneth Paltrow. Outfit with logo and luxurious at first glance for the influencer Chiara Ferragni, progenitor of that unbridled luxury, ostentatious in all its forms.
What is really quiet luxury?
‘Quiet luxury’ is the new aesthetic trend loudly stealing public attention. Google searches for the term grew by 337% in April alone. Also known as ‘stealth wealth’, this subdued yet premium mode of dressing is leaving its mark on popular culture. As the term implies, there’s more than meets the eye when it comes to quiet luxury.
The quiet luxury convert is less concerned with projecting wealth than creating a wardrobe full of high-end everyday staples that speak to a more sophisticated understanding of style.
To the untrained eye, it’s likely to go under the radar.
Think neutral colours, smart tailoring, clean-cut lines and elite craftsmanship. Think logo-less Loro Piana baseball caps, Brunello Cucinelli cashmere sweaters and practically everything from The Row.
You can argue there’s a sustainability element too. By its very nature, quiet luxury aesthetic rejects the vagaries of seasonal fashion, trusting instead in time-honoured design. This mirrors the ‘buy less, buy better’ line towed by those who promote conscious consumption.
Why is quiet luxury so popular now?
Two key moments have helped to thrust stealth wealth into the spotlight. One is the release of the fourth and final series of HBO’s widely popular boardroom drama, Succession. Google Trends data shows a dramatic increase in searches for ‘quiet luxury’ and related terms following the airing of S4E1.
Two key moments have helped to thrust stealth wealth into the spotlight. One is the release of the fourth and final series of HBO’s widely popular boardroom drama, Succession. Google Trends data shows a dramatic increase in searches for ‘quiet luxury’ and related terms following the airing of S4E1.
The Roys' expensive but inconspicuous approach to fashion has become synonymous with quiet luxury. Every unassuming Bottega Venetta bag and Zegna zipped hoodie is duly noted by perceptive fans. There’s even an Instagram account dedicated to the outfits of Succession with 135,000 followers. The crowning moment of the series so far came when upstart chairman of ATN, Tom Wambgasms (Matthew Macfadyen), took a dislike to a logo-proud Burberry bag. The comment captures the spirit of stealth wealth in its rejection of loud luxury.
“She's brought a ludicrously capacious bag. What's even in there? Huh? Flat shoes for the subway?”
- John Doe
The other standout moment for quiet luxury in 2023 was Gwyneth Paltrow’s ski accident civil court case in Utah in March. Commentators called it a masterclass in pared-back chic. Brown and beige cashmere, head-to-toe Prada and Celine boots characterised her wardrobe over the widely-followed trial. Some even commented that the clothes she wore projected a degree of motherly innocence, helping to sway the jury.
Fashion analysts also root the upsurge in quiet luxury culture in socioeconomic factors. Some view it as a logical part of the post-Covid-19 fashion cycle. The argument goes that many luxury consumers adopted a maximalist approach during the pandemic, purchasing for a time when they could finally get out and ‘show off’ again. But as restrictions slowly waned, a more rational approach took precedence.
Others suggest that in times of wider economic downturn, the affluent shy away from wealth signifiers, hence the shift towards muted luxury.
Loud luxury vs quiet luxury
While quiet luxury might be on the up, its more adventurous cousin — loud luxury — is still in the driver’s seat. What sets it apart?
You could argue that loud luxury is more about social status and using consumer goods, including clothing, to make a statement. The labels that fall under this category are instantly recognisable with visible brand markings and a more experimental design approach: Moschino, Balenciaga and Gucci to name a few.
These pieces are worn to spark a conversation, not fade into the background. Instead of neutral palettes, bold colours and playful prints are the order of the day. The price point and quality are still invariably high, but the philosophy and aesthetic are entirely different.
Quiet luxury brands to have on your radar
1. The Row
The Row is the brand that comes to mind when we talk about quiet luxury. Launched in 2006 by child actors Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, the label has become renowned for its pared-back and anti-trend approach to fashion (even if it starts plenty of trends, and inspires countless copies, itself). From the most exquisite cashmere jumpers to leather sandals and classic wool coats, every piece that The Row produces is made from the highest quality materials and produced to the best standard.
2. Max Mara
Another brand known for executing the art of simplicity so well is Max Mara. The Italian fashion giant is most famous for its camel coats (of which it is considered to be the expert) and most of the mainline collections exude quiet luxury – low key, unassuming, but incredibly well made, and designed to last a lifetime.
3. Loro Piana
A brand favoured heavily by the costume designers on Succession, Loro Piana is a great example of quiet luxury. Founded in northern Italy in 1924, the fashion house's mission has been to only use the finest materials in its products, and to set the industry standard for quality production, merging technical innovation with traditional craftsmanship.
4. Brunelli Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli is another label which has embraced the absolute best in Italian craftsmanship, and has become known for its elevated basics. Originally launched in 1977 as a cashmere business, the brand now caters to men and women with full collections, and is all about timeless design.
5. Bite Studios
At the slightly more affordable end of the quiet luxury scale is the Stockholm-based, sustainable label Bite Studios, a brand launched by husband-and-wife duo Veronika Kant and William Lundgren. Prioritising fabric first, the brand uses only the best quality organic materials, and creates collections that are elevated but totally timeless. They work with a creative collective meaning that everything is produced in small batches, limiting waste, and allowing for pieces to be hand-finished.
6. Tove
Another relatively affordable label (in the world of quiet luxury that is) – which prioritises expertly-executed, timeless pieces – is Tove, a British brand that made its debut on the London Fashion Week calendar in February to much critical acclaim. Despite being incredibly Instagram friendly, Tove's designs are refined and elegant, and all about that subtle approach to style.
7. Toteme
Another Instagram-famous label which has rebranded capsule classics in recent years is Toteme – a Swedish brand which prides itself on timeless designs and meticulous design. Loved by influencers and fashion editors alike, Toteme is the placed to go for chic tailoring, slinky slip dresses and those cult quilted jackets.
8. Jil Sander
German designer Jil Sander was one of the biggest influences on fashion's love of minimalism, and the label is therefore a great name to know when it comes to quiet luxury. Now helmed by designers Luke and Lucie Meier, the house has been stepping slightly away from this aesthetic recently (see its print-heavy AW23 collection for reference), but is still known as the place to go for refined elegance.
9. Gabriela Hearst
Gabriela Hearst prides herself on creating "honest luxury" where she prioritises sustainability, putting out collections that are designed to be worn forever. With expert craftsmanship and high-quality sustainable materials at the core of every single piece, the result is always elevated, timeless pieces.
10. Khaite
While you wouldn't describe anything that Khaite puts out as basic, the New York label – founded by Catherine Holstein – is beloved for its ability to take classic pieces and elevate them. From polished accessories to its cult cardigans and easygoing eveningwear, Khaite is a label that any quiet luxury fan will have hanging in her wardrobe.
