Edirne: Unveiling Ottoman Stone
Welcome to Edirne, a town steeped in history as the former capital of the Ottoman Empire, known in the past as Roman Adrianople. Nestled on the Turkish border with Bulgaria and Greece, Edirne enchants visitors with its bilingual signs and a tranquil atmosphere.
During our journey from Istanbul to Plovdiv, we made a brief stop in Edirne. It was late February, and despite the bare trees, the arrival of spring was evident in the warm sunshine, clear blue skies, and the melodious chatter of birds. The streets were serene and deserted, a striking contrast to bustling Istanbul. At night, the cityscape revealed a star-studded sky.
The domes and minarets of mosques gracefully rise above the tiled rooftops. Let's explore three of them: Eski Jami, the "Three Balcony Mosque," and Selimiye, each representing different stages of Ottoman architectural evolution.
Eski Jami, or the Old Mosque, built in the 15th century, resembles a stone treasure chest adorned with magnificent calligraphic inscriptions. Its multi-domed structure draws inspiration from the Ulu-Jami in Bursa, showcasing the Seljuk style.
The nearby Uch-Sherefeli-Jami, also known as the Three Balcony Mosque, stands in stark contrast. This intricate mosque boasts ornate minarets with distinct decorations, added over time. With its central dome and a courtyard surrounded by a gallery, it mirrors the mosques of Istanbul. Uch-Sherefeli-Jami's influence on Mimar Sinan, the renowned Ottoman architect responsible for Istanbul's Suleymaniye, Shehzade, and Mihrimah-Sultan mosques, is palpable.
However, the pinnacle of Sinan's craftsmanship lies in the Selimiye Mosque, located in Edirne, directly opposite Eski Cami and a short walk from the Three Balcony Mosque. Its remarkable feature is the enormous dome, surpassing even that of the Hagia Sophia. Regrettably, during our visit, the renowned Selimiye dome was closed for restoration, denying us the opportunity to marvel at its grandeur.
While the mosques of Edirne have remained remarkably preserved, the old city of Kaleiçi slowly succumbs to the ravages of time. Nevertheless, a few buildings near the main square have been delicately restored, maintaining their historical charm. The Ottoman-era stone bridges, on the other hand, have stood the test of time. Edirne is situated along the Merich River, known as the Maritsa in Bulgaria, which flows toward Plovdiv.
