Analyzing traditional stylization of marigold buti in Benarasi brocade, Ashavali brocade,
Jamdanis and Kanjeevarams.
Designing contemporary motifs with its roots based in Benarasi brocades
Characteristics of Benarasi brocades to keep in mind while stylizing motifs
1) Forms are filled using a twill weave
2) Common color schemes include zari (gold/silver) + Warm color (Gulabi, reds, orange)
3) Compositions follow a butidaar pattern or a tesselating jaal
4) Benarasi brocades explore top, cross-sectional and side views and juxtaposition of different views together
2) Common color schemes include zari (gold/silver) + Warm color (Gulabi, reds, orange)
3) Compositions follow a butidaar pattern or a tesselating jaal
4) Benarasi brocades explore top, cross-sectional and side views and juxtaposition of different views together
Impressions of pressed flowers and leaves used to give a textural dimension to the final surface
Once the print surfaces were made, they were re-calibrated to the limitations of the specified jacquard loom. Colors could only be introduced through the wefts leaving the warp white in color. NED graphics, albeit challenging to learn in a week, trained my eye to view colors as textures with tactility and dimensionality. Jacquard allowed several weave structures one a single surface and a larger print repeat.
Finalized surfaces with assigned weave structures
Surface 1, surface 2, Back side of both